What dazzles visitors most is the water of Formentera. A sea that ranges from a very pale and intense blue – almost whitish – to the deep green of the underwater sand. The most spectacular zone is in the north, close to the port of La Savina. This is where the Ses Salines region lies, which forms part of the Ses Salines d’Eivissa i Formentera Natural Park.
These salt marshes stretch along a sandy area, dominated in the south by the mirror formed by the pool of Estany Pudent. And to the north, a path leads you amidst pine groves and dunes, to the beginning of Ses Illetes. This sandy promontory extends northwards, as though it were trying to reach nearby Ibiza.
It is a unique place. A tongue of sand allows one to enjoy two seas, one of which may be calm and the other choppy. One dark blue and the other silver. The light sand contrasts starkly with the sky and the sea. And nothing else. This is absolute purity of landscape.
The stretch of sand gradually narrows as you approach the northern tip. Until it ends at the channel of Es Trucadors. A little sound that separates the island from the nearby islet of S’Espalmador. A Robinson Crusoe-like image.
S’Espalmador, which can only be reached by boat, looks like an authentic desert island. It has just two houses, a sandy beach, cliffs and a freshwater pool in the interior. Difficult to find anywhere where one could feel further from civilisation.
The coast of Es Pujols, the island’s small tourist resort, has a delightful beach. With the advantage of extremely easy access and the proximity of all kinds of services. It is one of the island’s most family-friendly beaches.
And for anyone looking for quite the opposite there are places like Punta de sa Pedrera. To reach it one walks along the shore of Estany des Peix, a mirror-like pool of water that is always calm, resplendent. Many boats sleep here. At Punta de sa Pedrera the shapes of an old quarry look like theatrical settings. They contrast with the sea and the nearby silhouette of Ibiza. They are highly photogenic and offer numerous secret nooks and crannies for bathing or sunbathing.
The island’s other large stretch of sand is the beach of Migjorn, the southern arch of the island. After the dunes, where some now- mythical beach kiosks are operational, the sea sweeps along the whole of the horizon. It is a limitless sense of freedom. From here one can see the Cap de Barbaria headland, jutting out like a rocky promontory, with the lighthouse that was made famous by Julio Medém’s film, “Sex and Lucia”.
As well as these broad beaches, Formentera contains a host of charming nooks and crannies. The kind that enable you to enjoy different bathing, entering into a personal dialogue with the landscape. Between Es Caló de Sant Agustí and La Mola, there is a rocky stretch of coast, with tiny little spots. Half hidden amongst the rocks, you can find the traditional boathouses where vessels are kept. And the stone forms platforms and narrow inlets for those who now how to find them.
La Mola rises up amidst the shadows of cliffs, leaving the area of Es racó de sa Pujada at its feet, with azure waters and a former sandstone quarry. The vision is truly magical.
Bathing in Formentera means enjoying complete sensations. Submerging in the transparent, luminous water, seeing the deep blue of the sky, feeling the hot sand under your feet. It feels like a cleansing ritual, a purification. Something that not only fills the stimuli of the body with plenitude, but also provides a near-spiritual calm. Fusion with the scenery, the water and the sun. Fusion with the universe.